The Word B

neptune must have been reading my blog site the other day. we were rewarded kindly with perfect swell two days ago, 22nd of June 2004. the waves arrived out of nowhere for about 24 hours and then, gone, just as mysteriously as they appeared. those people who were lucky enough to catch a surf that day were pleased. then there were a few people who really lucked out. i being one of them i think. with wind slightly off shore, blowing at a mild puff, and 2-3 meter south swell, a group of five people arrived at box head to witness perfection. we were already having a blast fighting off the cold wind as we drove 10 kilometers by boat at around 30 knots, in a 30 foot scarab boat. it was so much fun and so cold. when we pulled up at box head, there were 3 people in the water, they too had come by boat. it was only a few hours after the sun had risen when we had suited up and jump into the water for a 3 minute paddle into the break. the size was overhead and perfct lefts as far as the eye could see. the only concern was when to pull off from the wave because you had been riding it for so long and so far, away from the point and away from the boat! we are talking about 10-20 minute straight paddles, or further if you wanted. we surfed for nearly three hours, until nobody could feel their arms or shoulders any longer. during the surf session i pulled off one of those moments of greatness that happen to us all, from time to time, and no one is looking. well fortunately two people we watching as i dropped into a wave, and all 9 feet 2 inches of my board went vertical. for a split second i thought i was gone. but i pushed back on my right foot, slightly turning my shoulders backside and pulled off the drop after the free fall and zoom! i took off down the line with a wall of water chasing me as fast as it could. the whole day and every wave was just as thrilling. it is a great day when you can sit out in the water and catch waves til your hearts content with your mates, jovially shouting out, "long boarders suck," and "paddle you pansy short boarder kooks." when we climbed back into the boat, too tired to stand, we could look back and count 30 plus people surfing. the secret was out, box head was going off. but we could care less, we had already gotten our fill of waves. the only thing left to do was pull anchor, start the motor and fly back to the dock. we stopped for lunch and then home to nap.