Thursday, June 17, 2004
lake pacific
does anyone out there know what has happened to the swell? i live in sydney, australia and haven't seen decent waves for nearly a month. has someone gone and confiscated them? and does anyone know where they went? this is a message going out to anyone that lives on or near the biggest lake on the planet- the pacific ocean.
i am nearly given up on surfing. i have decided to take up a new sport that is more consistent and at this point much more strenuous. the new sport is yoga.
however, i know that i will be back out in the surf with the first hint of swell, along with every other kook that owns or has access to a surf board. and ususally those first 2-3 days back in the water after such a long spell of no waves, things get a bit agro. people are on edge and tense with one another, because everyone is struggling to get their fill of waves. my suggestion to those who do get uptight during those few moments back in the water. relax. try yoga on the days off. it all helps.
i am nearly given up on surfing. i have decided to take up a new sport that is more consistent and at this point much more strenuous. the new sport is yoga.
however, i know that i will be back out in the surf with the first hint of swell, along with every other kook that owns or has access to a surf board. and ususally those first 2-3 days back in the water after such a long spell of no waves, things get a bit agro. people are on edge and tense with one another, because everyone is struggling to get their fill of waves. my suggestion to those who do get uptight during those few moments back in the water. relax. try yoga on the days off. it all helps.
