The Word B

well the last 8 days i have been away from civilization. we headed north for warm weather and warmer waters. it was the first time camping in nearly two years. the only thing we did not plan for was the rain, but that was only water. we dried out. for me, however, the highlight was the surfing. i surfed many awesome breaks, some of them world class. day 1 was minnie waters- a beach break, that was nothing special except for the fact i was the only person in the water. day 2 was angourie- a world famous right hand point break. there was only a handful of other surfers in the 2 meter storm swell. it was memorable and the water was so clean. day 3 and 4 at clark's beach at byron bay- this was a perfect wave for long boarding as everywhere else was blown out and over powered by the storm. here i got some of the longest rides of the trip. the currents were so strong that it was a constant paddle to keep in one place. there was no sitting on the board for a rest. often times i caught such long waves, that i had to get out of the water and walk back up the beach to get back to the take off point. there was 80-100 people in the water so the crowd made it difficult. day 5 evans head- for another all time great right hander. this was a wonderful day in the water with friends. only 4 of us in the water, so it was pretty much any wave we wanted. surfed there for about 2 1/2 hours, before the major tide change killed the wave. day 6 was a swim at south west rocks. day 7 crescent head- for more great long boarding waves. by the time i walked out of the surf here, i felt like i was surfing and paddling very strong.
my return home to dee why, there is no waves whatsoever. so i am back to painting house and ocean swims.