Sunday, August 13, 2006
back on the board
i've been dreaming about is for nearly three months. i have been talking about it for about two months. i have been threatening to do it for the past three days. today i finally did it.... i got back on the surf board and went for a surf. it was fantastic.
i wasn't out looking for the biggest surf. i just wanted a nice 2-3 foot wave, and that is what i got at long reef today. the water was crystal clear and warm. the sun was out with a blue sky. the wave the ocean put up was awesome.
i have been unsure how my stomach would cope lying on a surf board and paddling around, post operation. except for one moment when i went over a wave and strained my abdominal muscles (i squeeled in pain), the entire session was perfect. i caught all but 2 waves i paddled for. i surfed like i haven't been out of the water for three months. it felt like it could have been last week since my last wave. the rest of the people in the line up would have had no clue i was lying in the hospital this past may. i could hardly imagine it myself.
i am feeling great at the moment in my recovery and fitness levels. i am exhausted tired tonight, but am stoked with the outlook of a healthy future.
tomorrow i am back to my student teaching at the local high school around the corner. i am doing six weeks straight- no pay. i am eager to get it all over and done with. i am a bit over the study and work full time routine. i am way over the work for free routine. shit, they could at least offer me peanuts or something. in order to give the appearance of a changed man, i decided to grow a bit of facial hair. perhaps it will provide me with a bit more authority in the class. yeah, right.
i wasn't out looking for the biggest surf. i just wanted a nice 2-3 foot wave, and that is what i got at long reef today. the water was crystal clear and warm. the sun was out with a blue sky. the wave the ocean put up was awesome.
i have been unsure how my stomach would cope lying on a surf board and paddling around, post operation. except for one moment when i went over a wave and strained my abdominal muscles (i squeeled in pain), the entire session was perfect. i caught all but 2 waves i paddled for. i surfed like i haven't been out of the water for three months. it felt like it could have been last week since my last wave. the rest of the people in the line up would have had no clue i was lying in the hospital this past may. i could hardly imagine it myself.
i am feeling great at the moment in my recovery and fitness levels. i am exhausted tired tonight, but am stoked with the outlook of a healthy future.
tomorrow i am back to my student teaching at the local high school around the corner. i am doing six weeks straight- no pay. i am eager to get it all over and done with. i am a bit over the study and work full time routine. i am way over the work for free routine. shit, they could at least offer me peanuts or something. in order to give the appearance of a changed man, i decided to grow a bit of facial hair. perhaps it will provide me with a bit more authority in the class. yeah, right.
